Snowmobile starts, but then dies- Carb?
Posted on Feb 07, 2010 under snowmobile dealers |I have a 1981 Yamaha Enticer 250cc (single cylinder engine). I paid $500 to replace some parts in the carb and I am getting problems already. I was driving it and drove faster then other times (60km/h max). When I came to a stop and released the throttle, the engine automatically shut off and I couldn’t get it started again. So I waited an hour, and got it started. If I didn’t give it throttle, it would die right away and would have to wait another 1 hour before being able to start it again. How come it needs to cool off???? when I start it and want to keep it running, I have to rev up the engine and keep reving it. Before it broke down that day, it worked perfectly, and now I am all of a sudden getting problems.
-I cannot get it to idle anymore
-I can take it for a ride, but cannot stop or release the throttle until I get back home, unless I don’t mind being stranded for an hour
Different people are telling me different things and I am confused. I do not want to take it back to the dealer and pay another $500. But I don’t know too much about these machines. Should I clean the carb, or adjust something?
Why would anyone spend that much to fix an old piece of junk. Two of those $500 repairs is enough money to buy a newer, more reliable sled with a better suspension and more powerful engine. $500 to replace some carburetor parts in outrageous. You should be able to buy a new carb for less than that.
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By redstapler52 on Feb 7, 2010 | Reply
The plugs and exhaust will tell you a great deal about the carb. Pull the spark plug out and look at the electrode end. It should be a light brown color. If it is dry and black, you’re running too rich; if its white, you’re too lean; black and oily, either a faulty plug or wrong mixture. If your exhaust is black, you are running too rich. Too much oil will give you a bluish smoke. Start at the plug, reference the first link below for pictures. The second link gives info on tuning a two-stroke engine. If you decide that you need to clean/adjust the carb, make sure you make a note of the positions of the idle and air screws. This is done by turning the screw all the way in and counting each turn or fraction of a turn from the original position until its fully closed but not overtightened. When re-assembling the carb you should start with these positions for the idle and air screws. You’ll also need to check float height and make sure all the jets and passages are clear. Carb cleaner does a pretty good job but sometimes you may need to use compressed air or a very fine wire if the passage is completely packed with crap. If you do use a fine wire, never, ever force it through a passage smaller than the wire; you’ll trash your carb or jets. The jets should be stamped with a number, depending on the make the number corresponds to a diameter of the orifice. If it is a Keihin carb, the number should represent the diameter in mm, Mikunis are different however. If you have a set of small drill bits or pin gauges, you can check the size of the jets, use the back of the drill bit if using drills. Pick up a shop manual for your sled and it will have trouble-shooting steps as well as the settings for the carb and spark plugs.
References :
http://www.theultralightplace.com/sparkplugs.htm
http://www.freeengineinfo.com/two-stroke-carb-tuning.htm
By winterrules on Feb 7, 2010 | Reply
Why would anyone spend that much to fix an old piece of junk. Two of those $500 repairs is enough money to buy a newer, more reliable sled with a better suspension and more powerful engine. $500 to replace some carburetor parts in outrageous. You should be able to buy a new carb for less than that.
References :