Snowmobile problem- Carburetor?
Posted on Jan 04, 2010 under snowmobile dealers |I am very confused. But here is the story: (sorry its so long)
Last winter I bought a 1981 Yamaha enticer 250. A hundred miles later; I took my hand off the throttle, it came to a stop, and it died. I could not get it started again. The engine flooded. Gas was leaking out. I took the spark plug out and started pulling it (starter cord) and gas came spraying out. A mechanic drained the crank case so it would run again. 15 miles later (2 days of driving it) the same thing happened again, it died from flooding. So finally I decided to take it to the Yamaha dealer, an they said that some parts in the carb needed to get replaced, so they replaced those parts and drained the crank case (and charged me $480!!!!!!). This winter I started to drive it again (12 miles over 1 week), and it died the same way, but because of the same reason? So I just tried pulling it a bunch of times and it would not start. and this time, gas was not dripping from it and 30 minutes later when I took the spark plug out and started pulling it , gas was not spraying out this time. So I put the spark plug back in, started pulling and it started. I also noticed that the spark plug wire was not soldered very good (might have something to do with it?). And the 3 times it died, it was after going fast. I don’t know very much about snowmobiles and I am very confused. I am not sure what to do.
to make a long story shorter:
Took it for a drive, came to a stop and died from flooding, so I drained the crank case, and it started. Took it for another drive, and the same thing happened, but this time, I took it to Yamaha, they drained the crank case, and rebuilt the carb (cost $480). Took it for another drive, died same way, but for same reason? took spark plug out, pulling starting cord, but this time gas not spraying out. Pulled cord again and it started- Didn’t need to drain the crank case this third time.
Thanks
You got hosed on the labor. The original problem was probably the float or needle and seat. If the float gets filled with fuel or the needle sticks, your carb will constantly flow gas and flood the engine. As far as the plug wire not being "soldered very well" you shouldn’t see any solder. One end should be enclosed in the coil and the other should be covered by the cap. If the wire is loose on the coil end, you may have a bad wire. If you pull the plug out and rest it on the engine head, you should see fat, blue sparks across the plug. If the sparks are intermittent or thin, try a new plug first then test the resistance of the coil with an ohmeter, you should be able to find specs online for the coil. Its possible that you’re generator is failing too if you have sparks issues. If your spark checks out, open the air cleaner and check for debris or rodents. Make sure the choke is off when you’re running it.
powered by Yahoo Answers
By redstapler52 on Jan 4, 2010 | Reply
You got hosed on the labor. The original problem was probably the float or needle and seat. If the float gets filled with fuel or the needle sticks, your carb will constantly flow gas and flood the engine. As far as the plug wire not being "soldered very well" you shouldn’t see any solder. One end should be enclosed in the coil and the other should be covered by the cap. If the wire is loose on the coil end, you may have a bad wire. If you pull the plug out and rest it on the engine head, you should see fat, blue sparks across the plug. If the sparks are intermittent or thin, try a new plug first then test the resistance of the coil with an ohmeter, you should be able to find specs online for the coil. Its possible that you’re generator is failing too if you have sparks issues. If your spark checks out, open the air cleaner and check for debris or rodents. Make sure the choke is off when you’re running it.
References :